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Monday, July 22, 2019

Crochet Counter Caddy

Hey friends, this post will contain affiliate links, so be aware, you'll help a sister out if you click through to view or purchase my recommended products. 




Here's a quick little problem solver for you: the "counter caddy".
I have a small stitch/row counter and it is very narrow, and doesn't stand up to well by itself. I like it to stand up, so as I'm working I can glance at the number. I try to prop it up, but when a row is inevitably done and I tap the counter- it topples over. Every time. It's such a pain. As I continue to work on my new afghan design (coming soon!) I contemplated what I could do to make this counter stand still and stay put.

I thought about cutting and hot gluing a cardboard stand, similar in shape to what I eventually crocheted. But I realized cardboard wouldn't last long, and it's ugly. The design is such that you can take the counter out and reset it as needed and then stick it back in its holder.

This quick and easy pattern uses Bernat Maker yarn which I LOVE. I must say, I always want to use a smaller hook than recommended for Bernat Maker. I feel like, if you crochet tightly, this yarn can really become something stiff and keep its shape. I love playing with it, and have tried my Market Wristlet in Bernat Maker as well. It comes out slightly bigger and has such a lux, sleek look to it!

My stitch counter is a clicker type, it's a Clover model in red with a clicker at the top and two side wheels to adjust the count as needed. It measures 1.5" across, 2.75" tall and 0.5" wide. The counter caddy fits this model perfectly and was custom crocheted to fit it. The caddy is worked in two pieces the top and the base.



Yarn: Bernat Maker Home Dec in Clay
Hook: G6/4mm
Working Tension: fairly TIGHT



TOP
Round 1: Chain 16 and sc in second st from hook, sc across 14, join to first sc made with a sl st and ch 1. (15 sts)

**Be sure to pause here and join the top of the first row as well. I prefer this method to joining the chain first, it eliminates the problem of twisted chain and trouble finding the last ch to crochet into. Additionally, when working in the round, I pull the join very tight, ch 1, and then make the first st of the next round in the same st as join.

Round 2: sc into each st around, join with a sl st, ch 1. (15 sts)

Rounds 3-4: repeat round 2

Round 5: working in front loop only make 2 sc into each st around, join, ch 1. (30 sts)




Round 6: (return to working in both loops) sc in each st around, join, ch 1. (30 sts)

Round 7: sc in each st around, join, ch 1. (30 sts) Fasten off.

The base begins with a chain, and both sides of the chain are worked, forming a round.



BASE
Round 1: ch 7, sc 2 in second ch from hook, sc 4, sc 3 in last ch, pivot work to stitch in back side of beginning chain, sc 4, sc 2 in the first ch (where you first sc 2) join with a sl st, ch 1. (15 sts)

Round 2: make 2 sc in each st around, join, ch 1. (30 sts)

Round 3: sc in each st around, join, do not ch 1, do not fasten off. (30 sts.)



FINISHING:
With right side facing, align stitches of the base with the stitches in the last row of the top. Working through both layers, sl st the base to the top, evenly around. Join to first sl st made and fasten off!

Enjoy your handy dandy stitch counter caddy!

Love, Bethany




Friday, January 11, 2019

Carly Slouch Hat

Happy New year friends! This post may contain affiliate links which benefit me if clicked through, or a purchase is made. Thank you for supporting Haute Kippy’s free content!



I took a super long Christmas break and during that time, made this really cute slouch hat for you! It's so cute. Made with 5-bulky weight yarn, it works up really quickly. I love the knit look stitches, and the post work too. It's just so fun to make as you get going with the pattern repeats. I especially love the fur pom pom.

I've seen them used and made by one of my favorite crochet designers, and I’m sure the interwebs has plenty of tutorials out there. They are super easy to make though- don’t fret. I didn't photograph the procedure, but here's a quick run through...

How to make a fur pom pom:

Take some poly fill stuffing, a utility knife, a large jar lid or circular object about 5" in diameter, crochet thread or other thick thread, and a tapestry needle. Trace the circle on the back of the fur fabric, and carefully cut the fur- please don't cut yourself! Then thread your needle with a healthy length of thread and tie a good knot on the end. Sew in and out around the edge of the fur circle with your stitches about 1/2" apart until you get back to the beginning.  
Pull the circle together by cinching the thread and when the opening gets smaller, stuff in enough poly fill to suit. Pull tightly closed, and tie off but don't cut threads yet. Center the pom pom on top of your hat, cinched side down, and stitch carefully, tightly and thoroughly onto the hat.



You can also buy one extra skein of matching or contrasting yarn and make a yarn pom pom as well. I'm sure it would also look super cute. If you make one, please share a picture with me on my facebook page, or in our  facebook group!

If you'd prefer to own this pattern  in the form of an ad-free printer friendly PDF simply click the buy now button  to get it from my Ravelry store!

I hope you had a wonderful holiday season and that your new year is looking bright and shiny! Let me know what you think of this pattern by connecting with me on social media, insta, facebook or pinterest! Have fun and happy hooking!

You may sell items made from this pattern, but please be courteous, always credit Haute Kippy with the original design and link to my blog when possible. Do not use my photographs to sell items. Do not copy, repost or distribute this pattern in part or in whole. Sharing paid patterns is a form of copyright infringement.




Let's Go!


Hook: L/8mm

Yarn: 5/Bulky weight- I Love This Chunky! in Heathered Gray, 1 skein- 109 yds

Gauge: 2” is apx. 5 sts in hdc

Difficulty: Easy

Materials: tapestry needle, pom pom (yarn or fur)

Finished Size: Adult, apx. 20” before stretching to fit most


Special Stitches: 


Hdc or dc in 3rd loop- stitching in the third loop: The third loop is located on the wrong side of the hdc and dc stitches, and is directly below the top “v” running horizontally and slightly diagonally across the back (wrong side) of the stitches.  Make a hdc or dc as normal in this 3rd loop where indicated. *Most of the time it is only the 3rd loop of a hdc that is worked in, however, a dc also has a third loop although smaller than the 3rd loop of a hdc, it is there and can be worked in just the same.

Fpdc- front post double crochet: make a double crochet around the front (right side) of the post of the dc stitch indicated, as opposed to stitching in the top “v”.

Fpdc2tog- front post double crochet two together, a decreasing stitch: this is not a common stitch. You are going to be decreasing while making a fpdc, and a dc together. Just like a dc2tog, except the first st is a fpdc instead of a regular dc. Start in the same manner as making a fpdc up to the last yo, instead of pulling through and finishing the st, yo and insert hook into the top of the next st, (as making a normal dc decrease) yo, draw through 2 loops, yo and draw through all loops, fpdc2tog made.


Notes: 

Joins are made as follows: join rounds with a sl st to the first st made, pull join tightly, and ch 1, then make first st of next round in the same st as the join.




Brim


Chain 7

Row 1: hdc in the third ch from hook, hdc in each st across, ch 2, turn. (5 sts)

Row 2: hdc in the back loop only of each st across, ch 2, turn. (5 sts)

Rows 3-24: repeat row 2.

Row 25: hdc in the back loop only of each st across, ch 1, do not break yarn.

To close brim: bring other end of brim up ensuring it is not twisted, lining rows 1 and 25 up to each other, sl st across both rows, joining the brim into a circle. Sl st through the back loop and front loop of both ends to join it, (sl st 5) then ch 1.

Pivot brim to work along raw edge.



Hat


Begin hat by slip stitching evenly along the raw edge of the brim, make approximately three sl sts for every two rows you work across, for a total of 39 sts around.

Round 1: Sl st evenly around raw edge of brim, do not join, ch 1. (39 sts)

Round 2: hdc in the first sl st made, hdc in each st around, join, ch 1. (39 sts)

Round 3: hdc in 3rd loop of each st around, join, ch 1. (39 sts)

Round 4: repeat round 3 but ch 2.

Round 5: dc in 3rd loop of each st around, join, ch 2. (39 sts)



Round 6: fpdc in the first st, *dc in next, then fpdc in next*, repeat ** around, join, ch 1. (39 sts)

Round 7: repeat round 3

Round 8: repeat round 4

Round 9: repeat round 5

Round 10: repeat round 6

Rounds 11-13: repeat rounds 7-9

Round 14: fpdc2tog over the first two sts, continue fpdc2tog around, fpdc in the last st, join, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing hat closed. (20 sts)


Finishing


Thread yarn tail with needle, and weave ends in and out of every other st around top opening of hat, pull tightly and sew opening securely shut. Sew on pom pom of your choice. Weave in all ends.








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